Chocolate Choux Puffs
- Rolling Pin
- Medium saucepan
- Mixing bowls
- Piping bags
- Plain round piping tip
- Wire rack
- Baking sheet
INGREDIENTS
Craquelin:
- 3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon/110 grams all-purpose flour
- 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon/110 grams sugar
- 2.8 ounces/80 grams cold butter
Choux pastry:
- 2/3 cup/150 grams whole milk
- 2/3 cup/150 grams water
- 1/2 cup/120 grams butter
- 1 1/2 tablespoons/20 grams sugar
- 1 1/4 teaspoons/7 grams salt
- 1 1/3 cups/180 grams all-purpose flour
- 4 large eggs, 200 grams
Cream:
- 2 cups plus 1 tablespoon/500 grams whole milk
- 5 large egg yolks, 100 grams
- 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon/80 grams sugar
- 6 tablespoons/50 grams cornstarch
- Pinch of salt
- 1.75 ounces/50 grams dark chocolate
- 1.75 ounces/50 grams milk chocolate
Topping:
- 1/3 cup/100 grams milk spread
- 1/3 cup/100 grams hazelnut spread
- 1/2 cup/60 grams hazelnuts, chopped
INSTRUCTIONS
- For the pastry cream, bring the milk to a boil in a small saucepan.
- In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks with sugar, cornstarch, and a little vanilla paste until smooth. Slowly pour the hot milk into the yolk mixture while whisking constantly, then return the mixture to the saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the pastry cream is thick and stable. Add both chocolates and whisk until fully melted. Transfer to a shallow container, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
- For the craquelin, combine the flour, sugar, and cold butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix until a cohesive dough forms. Roll the dough between two sheets of parchment paper into a very thin layer. Cut into small rounds slightly larger than your piped choux and freeze until ready to use.
- To make the choux pastry, combine the milk, water, butter, sugar, and salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add the flour all at once. Stir vigorously until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pan and forms a ball. Return to medium heat and stir for another minute or two to dry it slightly. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix for 1 to 2 minutes to cool slightly, then add the eggs gradually, mixing well after each addition, until the dough is smooth, glossy, and holds its shape.
- Preheat the oven to 340°F (170°C), convection setting.
- Transfer the dough to a piping bag fitted with a plain round tip. Pipe 3 to 4 cm rounds onto a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing them well apart. Place a frozen craquelin disk on top of each one. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until puffed and golden. Let cool completely on a wire rack.
- Whisk together the milk and hazelnut spreads until smooth. Fill a piping bag with the chilled chocolate pastry cream and pipe into the base or side of each cooled puff. Dip the tops into the spread mixture and sprinkle with chopped hazelnuts before serving.

FAQ
What’s the secret to getting chocolate choux to puff up properly?
It’s essential to cook the dough thoroughly on the stovetop before adding the eggs. This step helps evaporate excess moisture, allowing the structure to form. Also, add the eggs gradually and stop once the dough reaches a glossy, pipeable consistency that forms a V-shape when a spatula is lifted. Use a hot oven (around 400°F/200°C) for the initial bake to create steam, which expands the dough. Proper technique is key for successful chocolate choux.

How do I keep the puffs crisp after baking?
First pierce the base or side of each puff with a skewer once they come out of the oven to let steam escape. Then return them to the switched-off oven with the door ajar for 10–15 minutes to dry out. This prevents sogginess from trapped moisture. Once cooled, store unfilled chocolate choux in an airtight container at room temperature for up to one day, or freeze for longer storage. Fill them just before serving for the best texture.
Can I make chocolate choux ahead of time?
You can make chocolate choux ahead of time. The unfilled puffs can be baked a day in advance and stored in an airtight container, or frozen for up to one month. Re-crisp them in a 325°F/160°C oven for 5–10 minutes before filling. The pastry cream can also be made a day ahead and stored in the refrigerator. Assemble the chocolate choux just before serving to maintain the contrast between the crisp shell and creamy filling.
Why is my dough runny or too thick?
If your dough is too runny, it likely has too many eggs. Eggs should be added gradually and only until the dough is smooth, glossy, and forms a thick ribbon when dropped from a spatula. If the dough is too thick, it might not have enough egg or was overcooked on the stove, losing too much moisture. Using a kitchen scale ensures precise ingredient ratios, which is especially important in chocolate choux where cocoa can slightly dry out the dough.

Can I freeze filled or unfilled choux pastry?
Unfilled chocolate choux freeze very well. Once baked and cooled, freeze them in an airtight container for up to one month. Reheat directly from frozen in a 325°F/160°C oven until crisp, about 8–10 minutes. Freezing filled choux is not ideal, as the pastry cream can separate and make the shells soggy when thawed. For best results, freeze the shells only and fill them just before serving.
Why did my choux puffs collapse after baking?
The most common reason is underbaking. Choux pastry needs sufficient time in the oven to fully dry out, or steam trapped inside can cause it to deflate. Avoid opening the oven door early, and bake until the puffs are deep golden and sound hollow when tapped. Another culprit could be incorrect flour-to-liquid ratio or insufficient beating of the dough, which impacts steam development. Overloading the pastry bag or piping too close together can also cause uneven baking.
Can I use cocoa powder instead of chocolate?
You can use cocoa powder to flavor the dough, but it’s important to adjust the recipe slightly. Dutch-processed cocoa powder is preferred because of its smoother flavor and neutral pH. Replace a small percentage of the flour—usually about 10%—with cocoa powder to avoid drying out the dough. For example, if using 100 grams of flour, substitute 10 grams with cocoa powder. Too much cocoa can interfere with steam production, which is crucial for properly puffed chocolate choux.
