Heat oil in a wide pot over medium-low. Add the short ribs and cook until deeply browned, about 1 hour. Add the onion, salt, and pepper, cover, and cook 1 1⁄2 hours more until tender. Transfer the meat and onion (without oil) to a food processor and pulse until finely shredded. Shape into small balls and let cool.

For the dough, soak the bulgur in water for 20 minutes without draining. Add semolina and knead until smooth. Chill until ready to use.

Flatten a piece of dough in your hand, place a meat ball in the center, seal the edges, and smooth into a round with a flat top. Freeze on a tray until firm.

For the soup, heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large pot. Add onions and cook until golden. Stir in celery root, garlic, salt, pepper, half the Swiss chard, zucchini, and 4 cups of water. Simmer for 15 minutes.

Blend the remaining Swiss chard with celery leaves and add to the pot. Bring to a boil, add lemon juice, and adjust seasoning. Drop in frozen dumplings and simmer until tender, about 20 minutes. Serve hot with lemon wedges.